Final Ceremonial Run

The final ceremonial 10k run started at the Khoja tomb at the outskirts of the old city and ended at the Id Kah mosque. Took lots and lots of photos, ran the way with the three Everest summitteers and joined the party at the end. A local band with plenty of local onlookers. Waited to cheer May when she arrived who struggled all long limping on one leg. Collected my medal, took a shower, took care of (for lack of a better word) my diaper rash :) and spent the rest of the day back in the old city, some famous orchards, a museum and the bazaar. There was a banquet for the competitors in the main square under the huge statue of Mao. The next morning，went back to the bazaar -- the Sunday Kashgar market is the most famous in all of Central Asia, a huge shopping mall where camels are sold in the approximately the same aisle as brassieres. Took the taxi back to the airport to get back to Beijing via Urumqui. And now thought, I should finish the blog from Beijing.

 

While out in the Gobi, my favorite moments were the Heavenly Gate stage and the long 80k stage between CP6-CP7 feeling hopeless and finally sleeping in the middle of nowhere with three other guys and remember their faces when they woke up. And looking at the desert sky in the night when the Milk way just jumps at you. After 70km in a 80km stage, the stars and those bright objects take an entirely new meaning. I will remember a lot of laughter and stories —the kind that fills us as a coping mechanism under physical duress. The people who live in the Gobi keep it real daily. I gave it a good shot for about a week.

Day 5

Yeah I am finally done!! With 5 missing toenails, aggravated groin and a stiched eye!

 

What another long and amazing day. There were some strict cutoffs today. I just had to keep that in mind. My plan was to start slowly and figure how I would feel and keep going. I have no idea where this location of the place is, but I am sure its close to a border given the number of Chinese border patrols. I made good progress through, didnt push myself because I have just recovered and didnt know when my body or mind would break down. The interesting stuff happened mostly after checkpoint 5. I stopped to make dinner, Ramen noodles with chicken. Gulped down two servings,  then put on my headlight and red tail flashlight, my music and started towards Checkpoint 7. The description and the information given in our race packet was it was a gradual descent on a river bed. Anyways, it was like that for maybe 40minutes, but after that I ran into gravel and thorny patches. All the while thinking that I was off track. The headlights are no good at giving you the bigger picture, just what occurs near your feet. Anyways, since we are supposed to carry flashing redlights on our back, I could see those in the distance, so headed towards it. Met up with this guy, made my introductions and decided to run together for a while. CP6 was well hidden, you couldnt see it till you approached it from quite close. Stocked up on water, and this guy whoI was tracking with, decided to hang around there for a hour or so, so I decided to head again on my own. An hour later, I was lost again. It didnt look the route to me. Decided to find a rock and look at the map. Well, near that rock, I see three sleeping bags (ha ha). Some guys who were lost decided to just go to sleep there and wait for daylight. I took out my bag and slept too and when we all got up -- it was hillarious to see the look on their faces (a fourth guy sleeping next to them!!) We packed up quickly, but my bloody foot wont fit into my shoe anymore. Also my water Managed to squeeze it but it was painful with the blisters. Kept a steady pace and made it back.

 

Some amazing moments in the race. Adventure racing is not about athleticms, its mostly about have a stubborn attitude :) Two very strong runners from my tent dropped out due to various issues. In the night, ran into this Japanese girl who was limping so badly and tears in her eyes and so determined to move forward. It was quite inspiring.

 

We are relaxing today. The race for all measure is done! Tomorrow is a ceremonial run ending at the Id Kah mosque in old Kashgar something which had been a tradition for Silk Road travellers and a place I had visited before the race.

I am feeling good. My eye is not hurting at all. The docs did a good job of patching the gash. My feet are relatively ok -- compared to what I was expecting. I was expecting my knee to cause problems from the fall but it has recovered quite well. Whats hurting is my groin. Days of desert, sand and sweat -- you can lick the salt from my body. When the salt and sand builds in parts of the body say the groin, it causes a fucking bloody mess. My shorts have embarassing bloody sticky stains.

I have taken lots and lots of photographs. Some amazing pictures of the location (and yes Ashok bactrian camels are everywhere) and people watching in amazement at a Western pastime. Will post photos as I get back. I looked forward to getting see all the emails from you folks at the end of the day. In three days, I will be back at work, its seems so surreal -- we are all now relaxing at the really beautiful camp, an oasis in the middle of the desert, so lovely and grassy and so different from the harsh environment a mile away from where I am sitting.

Miss you all.

Day 4

What a day!! The first stage was truly truly truly spectacular and whether I finish or not,this was worth it all. Gorgeous setting through a gorge and to ascend 8 ladders to get to the top. My pain was numbing away. Te second stage had just started and the most difficult stage,but at a corner while descending a gorge, I slipped about 10ft or so. Luckily there were some other folks around who pulled me up. The top of my eye and eye lid was cut in two places and my knees bruised. I could  have gone back to CP1 and shown the doctor, but just chugged along. Very dangerous stage, steep descents in scree and climbing back up again. At CP2, the doctor took care of me for about an hour or so (stiches to one of the cut). CP3 was up and down --mostly down. We descended about 10k feet down to the valley. Between CP3 and CP4 there were lots of stream crossings, a very very long flat traverse, but the camp is near a beautiful graveyard :) whose mud architecture matches astonishly with the surroundings.

 

Got lots of email. Tomorrow is go to home day (50 miles). Other issues too, but I will elaborate on that later.

 

 

 

Day 3

Last night our camp was in a farm. I was hobbling - barely able to stand and walk around in the morning. I am still feeling weak, and just going to take it as it comes. Briefing at 8am and start at 9am. The first checkpoint passed through a village. The locals were lined up cheering and I took lot of photos. The pain slowly drifted away. The second stage was through the fields and crossing streams and canals. It was quite muddy and during one of the traverse I fell into a puddle which covered me, the pack and the camera in dirt. At a dry place took care to dry off the camera. CP2 lasted for a really long while through the fields and streams. At the checkpoint changed my socks. The third checkpoint was a slow climb through a gravel valley. Very painful. The last stage was better, firmer ground, but climbed to about 7500ft. We are now at Heaven's Gate, which is worlds highest natural bridge. National Geographic discovered this in 2002.

 

I am doing ok and not going to push myself -- need to survive tomorrow which is a difficult day and the last day which is really a long one -- but that is almost home stage.

 

My feet took a beating today and later at the doc tent, punctured two toenails to drain off the liquid-- guided by the docs..

 

Havent received any new emails today.

Day 2

 

Well yesterday as I might have mentioned stayed at a Kryzk village and in a Kryzk home. These are ethnic Kyrzks, they look more Persian than Chinese. We still have to use our own food rations (no yak milk Ashok). Kids and adults gather in the village square in front of this very picturesque mosque. I roomed with this Aussie guy, who believe it or not lives in Bombay, Malabar Hill. What a conversation picker that was and wanted to know how he trained for this in Bombay (apparently long runs from Malabar Hill to Nariman point and back).

 

I had decent sleep. My headache and fever had subsided. Still woke up around 3am -- but a decent 5hr of sleep and tossed and turned till it became bright.. I was very energized at the start and hoped if I stuck to my hydration plan things would go ok. There was plenty of time to kill, so I walked around and interacted with locals and kids. Briefing was at 8am, the run at 9am. The first hour was ok, a decent run out of the village and to the edge of some canyons. Made it to Checkpoint 1 quite strong. Soon thereafter the route apparently became quite difficult, going up and down innumerable canyons. A hour into Stage 2, I felt quite nauseatic and threw up all my food and water. Very depressing...I had a sinking feeling that my race had ended. I lay down in a shade for quite a while (around maybe a hour) just figuring how to proceed. Fortunately, I had carried antiboitics, a course which I never started. Took one tablet, 2 advils, finished some of my water, and some of my chocolates and goodies and decided to get back on route. The canyons were never ending, They were steep in sections and some places I had to retrace to make sure I hadnt lost my way. Also, I took out my trekking poles for climbing up and down. Stage 3 was just chugging along. Stage 4, I made decent time to the edge of a badwater canyon (Think those up and down formations in Death Valley). Also, I turned on ipod today at the last stage. I have to ration its battery since there is no way to charge.

 

I received so many emails today -- what a treat, thank you, thank you all, and am very happy. Its 6:30pm and the temperature is around 35C. The next two days are 42km and after that around 90km which would be a home stretch if I make it that far. I am just taking a stage at a time. Luckily my feet are doing ok, my nipples havent chaffed at all, am just worried about my strength and eating.

BTW, they upload the emails once a day via satellite connection and download the emails posted on the site.

 

Something I forgot to mention yesterday. Southwest of our route, I can clearly see the Karokaram range and I am guessing this is K2 was one of the peaks I could see. I will have to look it up later.

 

Miss you all.

(Blog updated via email)

Day 2

Well yesterday as I might have mentioned stayed at a Kryzk village and in a Kryzk home. These are ethnic Kyrzks, they look more Persian than Chinese. We still have to use our own food rations (no yak milk Ashok). Kids and adults gather in the village square in front of this very picturesque mosque. I roomed with this Aussie guy, who believe it or not lives in Bombay, Malabar Hill. What a conversation picker that was and wanted to know how he trained for this in Bombay (apparently long runs from Malabar Hill to Nariman point and back).

 

I had decent sleep. My headache and fever had subsided. Still woke up around 3am -- but a decent 5hr of sleep and tossed and turned till it became bright.. I was very energized at the start and hoped if I stuck to my hydration plan things would go ok. There was plenty of time to kill, so I walked around and interacted with locals and kids. Briefing was at 8am, the run at 9am. The first hour was ok, a decent run out of the village and to the edge of some canyons. Made it to Checkpoint 1 quite strong. Soon thereafter the route apparently became quite difficult, going up and down innumerable canyons. A hour into Stage 2, I felt quite nauseatic and threw up all my food and water. Very depressing...I had a sinking feeling that my race had ended. I lay down in a shade for quite a while (around maybe a hour) just figuring how to proceed. Fortunately, I had carried antiboitics, a course which I never started. Took one tablet, 2 advils, finished some of my water, and some of my chocolates and goodies and decided to get back on route. The canyons were never ending, They were steep in sections and some places I had to retrace to make sure I hadnt lost my way. Also, I took out my trekking poles for climbing up and down. Stage 3 was just chugging along. Stage 4, I made decent time to the edge of a badwater canyon (Think those up and down formations in Death Valley). Also, I turned on ipod today at the last stage. I have to ration its battery since there is no way to charge.

 

I received so many emails today -- what a treat, thank you, thank you all, and am very happy. Its 6:30pm and the temperature is around 35C. The next two days are 42km and after that around 90km which would be a home stretch if I make it that far. I am just taking a stage at a time. Luckily my feet are doing ok, my nipples havent chaffed at all, am just worried about my strength and eating.

BTW, they upload the emails once a day via satellite connection and download the emails posted on the site.

 

Something I forgot to mention yesterday. Southwest of our route, I can clearly see the Karokaram range and I am guessing this is K2 was one of the peaks I could see. I will have to look it up later.

 

Miss you all.

(Blog updated via email)

First day

The start was from the Autonomous Province of Kyrzakystan-. Several villages came to welcome us and some festivities including dance and horse games. It was a great treat. I still couldnt get much sleep -- windy and still jet lagged. The start was ok. There were multiple stream and canyon crossings. I didnt bother to remove my shoes, it dried off after a while. After checkpoint 2, I wasnt feeling well, headache and 102 fever. There was some steep canyon climbing at the end. Took it easy and finished the day today (42km). We are staying at a cute Kyrzak village, poplar trees and kids everywhere. I hope I can recover in strength over the days (next 3 days are 42km). Guys  I received your emails and reading again and again. I miss you all and the kids.

 

(Blog updated via email)

Into The Mystique

Marco Polo, Genghis and Kublai were here. So am I after more than a 30hr flight into the Western edge of China, jetlagged and groggy, checked in and ready to leave for the first camp in the desert. The only way to fight jetlag is now to run. Kashgar sits on the far end of the Xinjiang Province jammed against the borders of Kyrgystan, Tajikstan, Uzbekistan and Afghanistan. The European gateway to China, Kashgar a part of the Silk Road, a complex set of roads connecting China and the Mediteranean.

 

This is the land of the Uighur people and the curving roofs of Buddhist and Confucian temples give way to domes and minarets. Of all the Silk Road passages, the Taklamakan passage was considered the most dangerous and inhospitable. Desert travelers would pay their respect to local saints and offer gifts for their safe return. I too payed respects to Id Kah early morning, in the old town with donkeys, men in skullcaps and women in shawls. Their nomadic cultures and history traced in the facial lines and eyes, the spice, commodities and food in the market.

 

The place and the mystique, heightens the excitement and is part of the journey.

 

（Blog updated via email)

The Last Minute Civilized Preparation

Preparing for a notable upcoming race is an arduous and time consuming process and for most athletes tends to involve personal rituals of sorts. The longer, more difficult and more remote the event, the further heightened my of sense impending battle. Heading into the trenches of my most recent project—a 160 mile, self-supported, running stage race across the Gobi (Taklamakan) Desert in China, my ritual meter has been on high. Thoughts are of upcoming endless sand dunes, mountain ranges, severe heat and sand storms, while running on pummeled feet, and, resting in chilly uncomfortable nights on the floor of a tent shared with 10 fellow unbathed runners. In between running bouts we'll ingest pounds of dehydrated meals.

• My feet will swell and at the around 75 miles all my nails will pop, exposing raw skin which I cover delicately every so often. All last week, the kids and Reena took turns to massage and be nice to my soon to be well-beaten feet.
• Meet people and friends who are keen to eager to meet up before I leave to reaffirm their own sanity.
• A last minute shave. Initiating my adventure with a shiny clean face gives a sense of hope. For what, I'm not sure exactly.
• Wax legs - ha ha (not really)
• Check gear list again, and again and again.
• Give Reena and kids a few more hugs than usual.
• Copy and check reading material.
• Neatly wrap the little charms well wishers have given to carry with me
  

Nothing like going to a good battle to learn to not take oneself too seriously.